Foreword and Introduction
Foreword
The Alpine Club of Canada's (ACC) passionate volunteer leaders have expressed a desire for a nationally-supported training program that recognizes the diversity of ACC trip leaders and their roles in the various types of trips they lead in Sections across Canada. The ACC's Section representatives and Board of Directors have expressed concern at lack of a standardized national training curriculum. Previous attempts, over the last four decades, to provide standardized leader training materials (developed by national panels, mountain professionals or external consultants) were not well-received.
The approach taken in developing this field manual (and associated materials) recognizes that past attempts to develop curricula and training materials failed, largely because they were developed using a top-down approach whereby the Sections and their volunteer leaders were merely the recipients of materials at the end of a process. Past Leadership Development Committee (LDC) co-chairs Zac Robinson and Cyril Shokoples proposed the opposite, whereby the Sections and their leaders would be involved right from the beginning in identifying volunteer leader types, associated competencies and appropriate levels of proficiency, to be considered "really excellent leaders".
The process proposed by the LDC, and endorsed by Section Council and the Board of Directors, was driven by ACC volunteer leader input and participation. The LDC merely acted as facilitators, coordinating the process and ensuring results met ACC members' expectations. All ACC Sections were invited to appoint a volunteer leader to participate in an ACC Competency Profile working group (ACP). ACP reps were active volunteer leaders who were familiar with their Section's own leadership needs and current training practices. After establishing an initial list of leader types found nationally, ACP representatives and LDC members met to finalize the list and draft a competency profile for each leader type. Resulting "DACUM" charts list competencies and related learning objectives.
Past LDC member Sandra Bowkun was instrumental in working with LDC members and the ACP reps to ensure the competency profiles captured their intent. Draft profiles were sent to ACP reps for their review, and then shared with other volunteer leaders, for further input. A final set of 15 competency profiles was endorsed by the ACP reps, and by Section Council and Board of Directors.
With Section input, ACP reps then prioritized the development of training materials for their top three leader types: Top Rope Rock Climbing Leader, Winter Backcountry Leader (av), and Summer Mountaineering Leader. In addition, the ACP reps ranked a list of course goals addressing the competency profiles for each leader type based on their Section's view of the highest-priority learning objectives for each competency. Section Council then directed the LDC to begin developing a training module for the Top Rope Rock Climbing Leader.
Both the ACP and LDC recognize there are numerous skilled and competent volunteer leaders currently active in ACC Sections, and not all of them will have high proficiency in every competency identified in the applicable profile. It is not the intent of the LDC or the ACP reps to define the minimum levels of proficiency in each competency for a given leader type necessary to lead Section trips. The relative importance or necessity for proficiency in each competency varies across the country according to the context in which each Section operates. It is therefore up to individual Sections to decide which competencies are absolutely necessary for the various leader types in their context, and what appropriate minimum levels of proficiency are in each competency relative to their Section's needs.
Aspiring volunteer leaders can consider the Competency Profile to represent the ACC's definition of what skills an exceptional volunteer leader would have or aspire to develop. It is possible that volunteer leaders already leading Section trips may not have the highest levels of proficiency in all competencies. This should NOT be taken to mean they are no longer qualified to continue leading Section trips; rather, the competency profile can be used by these individuals as a road map for continued personal leadership development.
This handbook follows competencies in the Top Rope Rock Climbing Leader Competency Profile. Together with an accompanying Instructor Agenda, Lesson Plans, Participant Evaluation Form and Competency Vetting Form, it forms a complete module intended to facilitate training of volunteer Top Rope Rock Climbing leaders by qualified ACC volunteers, professional outdoor educators, or guides. Individual ACC Sections may choose to simply refer to the module to augment existing Section training materials, or use it as the basis for their own local volunteer training programs. They may choose to use volunteers from within their own or other Sections, or professional instructors, in the delivery of all or some of the materials presented.
Introduction
The purpose of this field handbook is to support the Alpine Club of Canada's top rope leader training program, as well as to act as an ongoing resource for top rope leaders. It is designed to highlight techniques and applications commonly used by top rope leaders to assist in the delivery of a successful top roping outing.
Target Audience
The directed audience for this field handbook includes experienced recreational climbers, with some prior basic group management experience, who are confident lead climbers and technically proficient with basic climbing systems, and who possess current first aid training. Additionally, it is designed for aspiring leaders who are in the process of increasing their recreational climbing knowledge and abilities, and as a reference resource for top rope leaders who have successfully completed the Top Rope Leader Training program.
Limitations
This field handbook strives to provide information specific to common, or routine, top rope climbing and group management scenarios. However, it is not all encompassing and cannot account for all potential situations or circumstances. It is therefore expected that in addition to this manual, top rope leaders are capable of exercising good judgement and situational awareness.
Disclaimer
The information contained in this field handbook has been obtained from equipment manufacturers, industry best practices, applications promoted by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, and the policies of the Alpine Club of Canada. Every care has been taken to ensure that the information contained herein is accurate and current. However, the content of this field handbook is subject to change as equipment, techniques, and best practices evolve. Therefore, the field handbook should be used as a resource guide only.
The author, publisher, The Alpine Club of Canada, its board, directors and officers, and employees are not responsible for the results of any actions taken by users of the information contained in this book. Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity that you pursue at your own risk.